The Chef: Caroline Glover
Her Restaurant: Annette in Aurora, Colo.
What She’s Known For: Bringing years of experience on the farm to ingredient-focused cooking. Rustic dishes executed with a light touch.
IT BEGAN WITH an exciting ingredient—as do most of Caroline Glover’s dishes at Annette, just outside Denver. “These incredible new potatoes come in from a local farm,” said the chef. “They’re so tender and sweet you wouldn’t believe it.”
In her second Slow Food Fast recipe, freshly dug spuds share the plate with flakes of smoked trout and a generous smear of bagnet vert, the green sauce from the Italian Piedmont made with stale bread, anchovies, capers, herbs and vinegar. Rounds of quick-pickled beets, more herbs and a tart drizzle of crème fraîche complete the well-balanced composition.
“I like acid to be the last thing you taste,” Ms. Glover said. “It makes you go back for more.”
TOTAL TIME: 35 minutes SERVES: 4
4 small beets
1¼ cups water
1 pound small new potatoes
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons
2 cups torn stale sourdough bread with crusts removed
1 cup parsley leaves
1¼ cup cilantro leaves
1 tablespoon capers
1 anchovy fillet
¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil
½ pound smoked trout
4 tablespoons crème fraîche
1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Place beets in a small roasting dish with water and a generous pinch of salt. Cover with aluminum foil and roast until beets are easily pierced with a sharp knife, about 20 minutes. Fill a small pot with salted water, add potatoes and bring to a boil over high heat. Cook potatoes until tender, about 15 minutes, then strain.
2. In a small pot, combine ½ cup vinegar, ½ cup water and a generous pinch of salt. Bring brine to a boil, then remove from heat. Use a kitchen towel to rub hot beets until skins slip off. In a small bowl, toss beets with salt and pour hot brine over. Let beets marinate, tossing often, until lightly pickled, at least 10 minutes.
3. Make bagnet vert: In a bowl, soak bread with ½ cup water. Let bread soften until it absorbs all liquid, at least 5 minutes. In a blender, combine soaked bread, parsley, 1 cup cilantro, capers, anchovy, 2 tablespoons vinegar and a pinch of salt. With motor running, drizzle in ¾ cup oil and continue blending until sauce is homogenous and smooth, 1-2 minutes.
4. Whisk together crème fraîche, a pinch of salt and 1 tablespoon oil. Slice beets into rounds and blot dry.
5. Spread bagnet vert over a platter. Crack boiled potatoes into large bite-size pieces and distribute over sauce along with sliced beets. Flake trout and scatter around. Drizzle crème fraîche over everything. Finish with cilantro, a drizzle of beets’ pickling liquid, remaining oil and salt.
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